Dent Repair

[Prostreet]

Hi Guys
You know most of us are going to have to sooner or later come face to face with a dent to repair . :eek: Hopefully as we are restoring our project and not after the fact. :o How many are interested in a post of detailed photo's and a step by step in depth discussion on what happens to a panel when it is dented? :confused: If so I will take the time to post it but like most of my threads they are some what long winded. But when we are done we will know and understand clearly what we need to look for and how to approach the repair. We will better know when metal is gathered and when it has stretch. this will also cover on and off dolly repair to prevent more damage in the already damaged area. Keep in mind there are only to ways to create shape to a panel STRETCH or SHRINK. We will also cover metal finishing to the point were most will only need a high build filler primer to complete there repair.
It will take me some time to take and gather the photos needed to post this , some I already have most are going to be from a freshly dented panel. Not to worry no cars were damaged on purpose in this thread .:D

[Prostreet]

OK how about we start out with (simple )
Dent : the re-arangement of an original area or shape .


Shape is a direct result of changes in area thicknesses (stretches & shrinks)
When stretching metal you are thinning When shrinking you will thicken.

Form: an arrangement of surface information that creates shape.

Suface area:The amount of area measured in total .

Lets say you have a 3 foot by 3 foot sheet of metal cut to the exact size and shape needed to be pressed into a mold to produce a 55 Chevy front fender.
When it comes out of the press will it have more or less area? No, that would be like saying it went in at 3 pounds and came out at 4 pounds or 2 pounds. It's not possible right .

Picture that sheet metal as a 4 pound block of clay and it is placed in the press and as it is squeezed between the dies it will get thinner but willnot be less than the original 4 pounds
that is how you can figure surface area .
So now that you have an idea of the terms of what we will use in this thread it will be easier to understand what actualy happens to a body panel when it gets a dent or is re-arranged.

Before we go futher and something is not quite clear please ask . That is what this excersise is all about . It may only be the way I chose to write this thread that may have you interpit it differently.

[Prostreet]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Folks
here are a few simple diagrams to help better understand how the dent can be removed with great results.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/prosheetmetal/on-off-dolly-repair.jpg
In this illustration shows the two different approaches of ( on dolly ) and ( off dolly ) .
With the off dolly you are holding pressure against the low area with the dolly and hitting of to the side causing the dolly to drive the low area up to the hammer blows. Now in most cases you only have to lightly tap with the hammer and the dolly being the heavier of the two the dolly will then try to come to the surface.
working around the outer perimeter of the dent you will begin to work the low areas up closer to the top and the high areas will then head down.
The closer you get to the more frequent you want to check your work to see you are still going in the right direction. These are all very basic techniques. and we will get into photos later in the discussion.
Now the (on dolly ) method will net you some of the same results , until you actually bring the hammer and dolly in direct contact with each other with the sheet metal between. Here is were you will have to be careful not to create a stretch. Again we will show this more in dept with photos. But back to the part were hammer meets directly over the dolly and you hear a sharper ring than when there was space between the hammer and dolly due to the fact we had damage or wrinkles in our panel . When you start to hear the different tone and it is evident stop and examine the area. Now is a great time to switch over to the slapper.

I this next illistration we will explain the slapper and dolly technique.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/prosheetmetal/slapper-and-dolly.jpg
The great advantage of the slapper is it covers a lot of area all at once and spreads each blow out more evenly . Were as with the hammer it hit small areas sometimes causing marks you dont need and making you work harder and longer.
The slapper and dolly combo is a great finishing technique because of its smoothing capabilities. Now what makes it even better you can work dolly on and dolly off with less fear of over stretching the repair area.
Next we will discuss another very helpfull tool the shrinking wheel. This tool will amaze you every time you use it.

[UH-1driver]

Hey Steve, would very much like to see you continue with the thread you started here if possible. Just joined the site and would like to learn more from your experience. I'll soon be starting on my 55 chevy doing one section/panel at a time. I picked up a 70's era Ford dump truck fender to practice banging, cutting and welding on before even thinking about shrinking or strectching a hair on the chevy.
Thanks Frank

[muscle]

Thanks Steve , that is some great information.

Otis:)

[1957Chevy]

Steve --- good instructions! I've never read anything about dent repair, and I don't think I'll be doing it any time soon, but it's always interesting to read technical articles like this. Thanks.

BTW What exactly is a "dolly?"

[WINGNUT]

The 'dolly' is the tool used on the opposite side of the panel. When you hammer or pound the panel with the hammer or paddle, you use the dolly to help tranfer the energy of the blow where you want it. You hold the dolly underneath the panel, and then strike the panel with the hammer. I have taken auto body repair courses before (10 years ago) so I am no way an expert......but I did remember a few tricks.

[Prostreet]

Hi Guys
I have to appoligize I did not see any replies in the dent repair untill today , and I hope I did not leave you hanging. :o How about you post a question that way I can target the area you have most of your concerns. :confused:
Again hope you we're not hanging on to long guys.:o

[WINGNUT]

Thanks for the info.......any other info you can give us? :cool:

[THEL78ISGREAT]

Hey Steve, I dont want to get this thread off topic, but whereabouts in PA are you located, N, E, S, W wise? I assume your shop does body work, and when I get my project the chances are its going to need body work. I dont mind traveling a few hours to a good body shop with an honest owner who is into hot rodding and musclecars, im in Danbury CT, which is basically on the NY/CT boarder in southern CT and just want to know how far away you are.

[Prostreet]

Hi Thel78
Actually we are very easy to get to , we are right off interstate 80 exit 224.
From Danbury I would have to say about 4.5 to 5 hours to my front door. From the time you enter in to Pa. on 80 you have about 2 hours to go before you are here. A customer from the east side of Jersey says it takes just under 3 hours. I have a Customer up in the New York area that would come across 84 to route 81 south and then across 80 and he was about 4 hours. Whether you are coming post project or just a simple day to visit we would really like to have you down to give you the tour and give you a first hand look at our projects and how we like to approach things from the sheet metal and body end of the job. This gives you a better understanding of the time and care we like to give each and ever restoration that comes threw our shop. :)

[THEL78ISGREAT]

Ok, that doesnt seem bad at all. Especially if I were to bring the car to you when they had some kind of car show in that area. I could make a weekend of it.

[Dover78]

Hey Steve, are you located near Blairsville? I'm on my senior year in high school at the Buckeye Career Center here in Ohio and I'm taking auto collision. After I graduate I plan on attending Wyotech in Blairsville, PA and taking their Auto Body course as my main course and Hot Rod and Custom Fabrication as an elective. I'll need a place to work while I'm there and I was wondering if maybe you could use some help at your shop?

[Prostreet]

Hi Dover
We are about 100 miles or so from Blairsville, but if I'm not mistaken there are a few shops in that area that take on Wyotech,s students for a possible full time or for just the time they are there. I have had a few in our area tell me they worked in local body shops while still in training. But when you get to Pa. drop in on us for a visit. :D

[Dover78]

I'll be sure to do that. What do you know about Wyotech, all I've heard about them I got from their representatives. Right now I'm torn betweent Wyotech, Nashville Auto-Diesel, and UTI. If you have any aged wisdom you could empart on the subject I'd love to hear it.

[Prostreet]

HMMMMM heard a lot of good about UTI. I'm not at liberty to judge the school by there students But like anything else only time in the shop will gain you good experience. Im old school and I'm old hat I've been there and already done that. :D