This a good choice?

[Duster_340]

So, iv decided to scout around for a good engine to put in the Duster, and Iv found a few good candidates. they're all 360's, but with different power. here they are...
the fast
http://www.monicattichrysler.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=677
the faster
http://www.monicattichrysler.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idaffiliate=2&idProduct=676#noups
the fastest
http://www.monicattichrysler.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=1279

Im leaning tword the 2 most powerful. The ones with 395 HP and 390 HP both have the same tourque, but Id like to know if those extra 5 horses are worth 1,2 grand. which would you get?

[RiversideParish]

None. Roller cams and Magnum heads = teh suck.

I like to keep it old school. Just find an old 4-bbl car 360 from the early 70s. PST sells a master overhaul kit for about 1100 bucks, and with some minor mods they can make pretty good power.

But, it I had to get one of those 3, I'd go for the base one. There's not enough info provided, but I'm guessing the top probaably lacks the torque and fat powerband of the lower two.

[Duster_340]

whats so bad about magnums now?
and the top 2 both have 420 for torque and the base just has 385.

[Mongoose]

Hi Duster340. I am not a mopar guy although a 70 Challenger R/T is #2 on my wish list, it is my guess that mopar crate motors are not much different than GM's or Ford's when it comes to HP ratings.

Everytime you pay for more horsepower, you sacrifice something in streetability. Whether it is decreased fuel economy, increased cooling needs, higher octane requirements, or rough idle, etc, you will give something up for the power.

If I had to buy a powerplant and I wanted a driver to take to work on nice days, go to an occasional ice cream shop in the evening, or to just tool around in, I would opt for the base engine.

If however, I were building a stop light warrior, and streetability was not an issue, I would get the 390 hp version. The added $1,000 for the next engine, is probably getting you a higher compression ratio, a single plane intake, a higher lift cam and those other goodies that up horsepower a bit but are not a big bang for your buck. Also, those things I just mentioned, usually produce the extra horses at a higher RPM so you have to tach up to higher RPM to get those extra horses. Not always the thing to do on a street machine. The higher performance engine may well produce LESS horsepower in the normal operating range 2,500 - 5000 rpm BECAUSE OF the high performance parts.

For instance, tunnel rams look cool, but in reality they only really start to do their job at about 6,000 rpm. So check the rpm where the HP rating was taken.

Determine first how you are going to drive the car and only then, make your decision on a engine based on that. IMHO.

[THEL78ISGREAT]

whats so bad about magnums now?
and the top 2 both have 420 for torque and the base just has 385.
Hes trying to sound old school. Anyway, I dont think he realizes that you dont want to completely assemble and engine either. You should take a look around the Moparts forums, they probably have a few good deals on 340/360 short blocks and assembled engines. Im sure you can get short blocks from companies pretty cheaply too. Then you would just have to worry about torqueing the heads and intake down to spec and getting the gaskets on right and I think they usually dont come with cams installed, so youd have to intall one. Dont listen to "Riversideparish," roller lifters require no break in, will run smoother for street use, can handle more agressive ramp speeds, and can often be used for two engine lives. I dont know much about the Magnum heads, but if theyre aluminum that is great too. Aluminum heads can handle higher CRs without detonation and will run cooler in traffic and save a few pounds.